I wanted to add some smarts to the IKEA KRYDDA/VAEXER hydroponics system that sits in my workshop. The unit is technically on loan from my friend Matthew, but I may just have to buy him another one. Though all these upgrades are designed to be entirely reversible.
The system combines mostly cheaply available components and 3D printed models. The code and intelligence all comes from ESPHome and Home Assistant, but you could easily add your own.
Features so far include:
- Temperature and humidity monitoring at each level
- Remote control of lights with scheduling
- Monitoring of water level
- Whole system operates off one mains plug
I’m considering adding light level monitoring and maybe automated top-up of the water levels from a reservoir? That seems a little OTT though. If you were really going all out, you could look at using a camera and some sort of computer vision system to track growth. Then you could use machine learning to optimise light patterns and feeding. But that’s a little beyond the scope for now…
Bill of Materials (BOM)
This is as close to the parts I’ve used as possible. Bear in mind there may be differences – e.g. in sizes and mounting holes, so check and adjust before you print things.
I’ve used Amazon for reference as I have an affiliate account with them, but all these parts are available in lots of places at varying prices, depending on how long you’re prepared to wait.
- NodeMCU x1 (Amazon)
- NodeMCU Base x1 (Amazon)
- Arduino Pro Mini x1 (Amazon)
- DHT-22 Temperature and Humidity Sensor x2 (Amazon)
- Optical interruption sensors x4 (Amazon)
- 4-way relay board (Amazon)
- 12v switching PSU (Amazon)
- Veroboard/stripboard (Amazon)
- Dupont pins – single row and double row (Single | Double)
- Female-to-Female Dupont hook-up wires (Amazon)
- Ribbon cable or hook-up wire (Amazon)
- Level shifter (Amazon)
- 6-core alarm cable (Amazon)
- 6-pin panel-mount DIN sockets x4 (Amazon)
- 6-pin DIN plugs x4 (Amazon)
- IEC three pin power socket (Amazon)
- IEC power cable (Amazon)
- 2.5mm mains cable (rated to 13A see below) (Amazon)
- PLA filament (Amazon)
- Knurled M3 threaded inserts (Amazon)
- Connecting blocks or Wago snap blocks (easier) (Amazon)
- Rubber grommets (O/D 10mm)
Design Files
I’ve included the STL files here for you to download. This includes the rough sketches of the components I made to help me size everything and lay out mounting holes etc. These can be loaded straight into Cura or whatever slicer you use for your 3D printer. But you may well want to tweak and remix the files, since as I say, I’m hardly the greatest designer and there will definitely be some tweaks to make to fit the specific components you use. If that’s the case, follow the link for the full set of Fusion360 files which can be downloaded in a variety of formats.
Case: STL files (archive) Fusion360 files from AutoDesk
Cable Clip:STL files (archive) Fusion360 files from AutoDesk
Connection Diagram
Coming soon…
Code
This is the ESPHome sketch I use. You will need to install the relevant sketch on the Arduino and follow the instructions for the Arduino Port Expander over at ESPHome.io
esphome:
name: hydroponics_monitor
platform: ESP8266
board: nodemcuv2
includes:
- arduino_port_expander.h
wifi:
ssid: "YOUR_SSID"
password: "YOUR_PASSWORD"
manual_ip:
static_ip: THE.UNIT.IP.ADDRESS
gateway: YOUR.GATEWAY
subnet: 255.255.255.0
use_address: hydroponics_monitor.local
# Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
ap:
ssid: "Hydroponics Fallback Hotspot"
password: "CHOOSE_A_PASSWORD"
captive_portal:
# Enable logging
logger:
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
password: "YOUR_API_PASSWORD"
ota:
password: "YOUR_OTA_PASSWORD"
i2c:
id: i2c_component
custom_component:
- id: ape
lambda: |-
auto ape_component = new ArduinoPortExpander(i2c_component, 0x08);
return {ape_component};
output:
- platform: custom
type: binary
lambda: |-
return {ape_binary_output(ape, 6),
ape_binary_output(ape, 7),
ape_binary_output(ape, 8),
ape_binary_output(ape, 9)};
outputs:
- id: output_pin_6
inverted: true
- id: output_pin_7
inverted: true
- id: output_pin_8
inverted: true
- id: output_pin_9
inverted: true
switch:
- platform: output
name: "Top Tray Lamp"
output: output_pin_6
- platform: output
name: "Bottom Tray Lamp"
output: output_pin_7
- platform: output
name: "Relay 3"
output: output_pin_8
- platform: output
name: "Relay 4"
output: output_pin_9
binary_sensor:
- platform: status
name: "Hydroponics Status"
- platform: custom
lambda: |-
return {ape_binary_sensor(ape, 10),
ape_binary_sensor(ape, 11),
ape_binary_sensor(ape, 12),
ape_binary_sensor(ape, 13)
};
binary_sensors:
- id: binary_sensor_pin10
name: "Top Tray Water Half"
- id: binary_sensor_pin11
name: "Top Tray Water Full"
- id: binary_sensor_pin12
name: "Bottom Tray Water Half"
- id: binary_sensor_pin13
name: "Bottom Tray Water Full"
sensor:
- platform: wifi_signal
name: "Hydroponics Wifi Signal"
update_interval: 60s
- platform: uptime
name: "Hydroponics Uptime Sensor"
- platform: dht
pin: D3
model: DHT22
temperature:
name: "Top Tray Temperature"
humidity:
name: "Top Tray Humidity"
update_interval: 60s
- platform: dht
pin: D4
model: DHT22
temperature:
name: "Bottom Tray Temperature"
humidity:
name: "Bottom Tray Humidity"
update_interval: 60s
This is what my user interface currently looks like in Home Assistant
Most of this is done through the Home Assistant front end, but I did need to delve into some YAML for the template sensor that translates the output of the two optical sensors into a reading of ‘Full’, ‘Half-full’, ‘Empty’, or ‘Error’, if the sensors are reading oddly (e.g. top one closed but bottom one open).
Here’s the YAML:
- platform: template
sensors:
top_tray_water_level:
friendly_name: "Top Tray Water Level"
value_template: >-
{% if is_state('binary_sensor.top_tray_water_full', 'off') and is_state('binary_sensor.top_tray_water_half','off') %}
Empty
{% elif is_state('binary_sensor.top_tray_water_full', 'off') and is_state('binary_sensor.top_tray_water_half','on') %}
Half full
{% elif is_state('binary_sensor.top_tray_water_full', 'on') and is_state('binary_sensor.top_tray_water_half','on') %}
Full
{% else %}
Error
{% endif %}
bottom_tray_water_level:
friendly_name: "Bottom Tray Water Level"
value_template: >-
{% if is_state('binary_sensor.bottom_tray_water_full', 'off') and is_state('binary_sensor.bottom_tray_water_half','off') %}
Empty
{% elif is_state('binary_sensor.bottom_tray_water_full', 'off') and is_state('binary_sensor.bottom_tray_water_half','on') %}
Half full
{% elif is_state('binary_sensor.bottom_tray_water_full', 'on') and is_state('binary_sensor.bottom_tray_water_half','on') %}
Full
{% else %}
Error
{% endif %}
Notes on the design
The Arduino
I love the ESP8266. But sometimes you need more ports. And sometimes you want 5V logic. A real engineer would probably find a nicer solution than this. But ESPHome makes it *so* easy to bolt on an extra few ports and 5V logic with a little cheap Arduino (thanks again Otto). And fundamentally I’m about making things that work, not that are ready for mass production.
Temperature and humidity monitoring
I put this in at each level because initially I had the covered seed tray in one level and the actual plants in the other. I figured it would be good to measure the conditions inside the cover. It’s probably not necessary when you have the growth trays at each level, though you do see a big variation in temperature and humidity across the two. Could just be inaccuracy in the sensors though?
Water level monitoring
I ended up using a mechanical solution for this, based on the existing float system. I initially tried an electrical system with a forked contact plate in the growing medium, but because of all the electrolytes in the water (I’m guessing), these corroded incredibly quickly and failed.
The sensors I am now using were harvested from a broken photocopier I bought for £1. If you like making stuff and want loads of cool parts for next to nothing, I can highly recommend doing this. But this does mean my 3D models might not fit the alternatives I have listed in the bill of materials below and you’ll need to do some adaptation.
Mains wiring
This device switches mains electricity. That means you need to be bloody careful with what you’re doing! I’ve used lengths of colour-coded wire with a cross section of 2.5mm squared, rated for 13A. This is arguably overkill, since it is only driving two lamps rated at 10W and a 24W PSU. Obvoiusly, I take no responsibility for how you use this design. But I would not recommend using these little relays to switch something more power-hungry.